Ii Criteria To Be Observed
1 Sobriety And Minimalism Of Finishes
In leather jackets, there is LEATHER: it is he who will justify all your investment. If you do not value it correctly, as much to buy a jacket in technical matter, it will be the same and cheaper.
When you want to highlight the material on a part, it must be MINIMAL.
Do not lose a nice lamb leather dipped in an overflow of seams, closures, buttons or pockets.
Except in the case of a jacket or a goth ninja jacket, opt for simplicity.
For leathers with zippers: either RIRI (the must) or YKK (the good mid-range).
Button closures are only suitable for specific styles (usually suede leather bombers): avoid nappa or dipped lambskin leathers.
On leathers type teddy, it goes very well too:
Simple: it must be fitted. Be especially vigilant on the elastic ribs at the waist: if the jacket does not fit you perfectly, it will make you a completely packed back.
It is mainly to the purchase that it is monitored because the retouches are always very expensive.
It is above all in this part that I really want to give you a very general overview of what is being done, but without going into details. On one subject I do not like, and Romain Rousseau (from Modissimo) has already spoken about BonneGueule and I certainly will not do better than him.
We had also already discussed the issue for leather shoes: suddenly we will pass quickly on the notion of flower.
All the material zooms are from the site of the Exception, I retained them for the quality and the detail of the photograph.
What changes especially a leather one for your outfit is the rigidity and thickness:
-cow leather, cordovan: rigid, heavy and durable. Not necessarily pleasant and flexible to the touch and made to be broken as the ports. A bit like raw jeans.
Calfskin home Hoon
-lamb leather: soft and light with a nice touch ultra.
Lamb leather with Florian Denicourt
-goat between veal and lamb. The grain and pores are much more pronounced.
Buffalo and bison: by far the heaviest, often used for functional leather with real protection function.
-Pork: forget, touch plastic, shiny and very resistant
This is what confuses us most of the time: the leather finishes are what weaving is to a fabric.
We will see briefly the differences (and idem Romain Rousseau will speak to you in detail better than me if you are passionate about the subject)
-Nappa: a process of long and technical tanning applied to a full grain leather sheep or lamb which brings softness, flexibility and durability. It is one of the most qualitative types of leather jackets that can be obtained, but the price is also rather high (minimum minimum 200 euros)
-Aniline: Aniline is a chemical compound used to color and soften animal leather without removing natural shades. It is generally applied to cowhide leather, sheep and buffalo. This treatment allows a more breathable skin and is particularly suitable for brown and bronze leather.
-Nubuck: the top layer of a full-grain leather is scratched for a velvety finish and sandblasted similar to suede. The quality is however much better (and the price too). This type of material is also more vulnerable to water and must therefore be waterproofed.
-Suede: is used to skin a more fibrous leather with a matte finish but the durability of a full grain leather. It is readily discolored on contact with water unless treated with waterproofing agents.
-Leather drop: the top layer is cut into thinner slices, all that to keep an appellation 100% leather.To avoid.
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